Fledgling firms flourish among transition

There are ample opportunities for up-and-coming cosmetics lines to squeeze onto mass walls as the industry awaits the transition of several lines from Procter & Gamble to Coty, along with the final verdict on whether or not Revlon is on the block.

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But before P&G says goodbye to Cover-Girl, it provided the franchise with a huge push — a collection created by Katy Perry. In what is becoming a common way to announce a launch, Katy Perry tweeted on April 15 that she was collaborating with CoverGirl on her own makeup line. “After several wonderful years of BEING the face, I now get to CREATE the face,” tweeted Perry, who has been a CoverGirl spokesperson since 2013, to her more than 86 million followers. She was the third celebrity that week to announce a new hands-on beauty line. Earlier, LVMH released news it had signed with Rihanna to create Fenty Beauty by Rihanna. And Victoria Beckham unveiled her own, too. While celebrity fragrances have cooled, it appears beauty is the new fertile territory for stars.



Called Katy Kat, the line consists of bold demi-matte lipsticks and mascaras. There’s even a black lipstick and blue mascara. She tweeted a teaser video and Instagrammed from Coachella donning the shades. Additionally, she shared that the first 100 preorders would receive a signed lipstick. Eleven of the 13 shades of lipsticks are available exclusively through preorder online at Walmart.



Almay is adding, or reinstating, a celebrity ambassador just in time to give the languishing brand a shot in the arm. Elaine Irwin, who had graced Almay’s campaigns starting in 2004, is the face of Almay’s Age Essentials makeup line. It includes three new products — Makeup, a foundation with built-in moisturizer and SPF 15; Concealer, which targets dark spots, fine lines and includes SPF 20; and Lip Treatment with SPF 30 that aims to minimize the look of lines. All three have a combination of collagen, hyaluronic acid and peptides that help skin maintain a youthful look. The products will retail for $12.99 to $14.99. Irwin will be featured in the brand’s television, print, in-store, digital and social platforms, which will hit this summer.



Retailers noted Almay needs new life that they hope Irwin can deliver. While many thought Revlon was about to be sold — in January Ronald Perelman said he was considering alternatives for the business — they now wonder if new management was brought in to help take it private. Revlon’s new Fabian Garcia was joined by new CFO Juan R. Figuereo in the past month.



Revlon brands appear to be gaining traction with industry data, shared by one retailer, yielding numbers proving sales are up in several categories for Revlon brands in mass doors and for a four-week period ended in March. For example, concealers were up 12%, foundation rose 4% and lip liner almost 13%. Speaking at the National Association of Chain Drug Stores’ Annual Meeting, John Collier, SVP for Revlon, acknowledged the years of work is paying off with Revlon becoming an even bigger “driver” of the industry.



While the industry awaits what industry changes will are forthcoming with the big brands, there’s ample opportunity for fledgling firms to grow. E.l.f. is getting more doors and footage. Milani is benefitting for its on target marketing to the New General Market. Markwins’ is producing big gains with Wet ’n Wild and will add a foundation for the perfect “selfie.” Physicians Formula is expecting to benefit from interest in color correcting and natural positioning. NYX is finding that its free-standing stores also benefit those chains with the hot as a pistol brand.



And consumers who like to discover cosmetics brands online also are giving a vote of confidence to such owned brands as Circa, Nuance by Salma Hayek, Boots No7, Flower by Drew Barrymore and Ulta Beauty’s Fiona Stiles.